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Thread: Bulding of a Storage Shed 2.0

  1. #21
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    Here is what mine looked like prior to pour. They called it monolith(thickened edge). Here are some of the pics from 3 weeks ago.
    preprepped.jpgprepped.jpgcorner.jpgdetailrebar.jpgunspecified.jpg

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    PBN User 92nsx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j21black View Post
    Yeah. I was quoted $85/yard.

    School me on a thickened edge. I'm familiar with the fiber concrete. Did dads barn with it in 1998. I haven't found a crack yet.
    $85 a yd is a great price!!!

    Monolithic slab (engineering and inspector words) , thickened edge, floating slab, slab on grade, ECT. all the same.

    The slab and the footings are one of the same . No digging down for footings (here in MN It is Min 48" below ground, frost level). So for non living areas (garages, sheds, bars) we use floating slabs . There is a Min 12"X12" thick step around the perimeter of the slab with 2 rebar. My rebar was 3" up from the bottom and the other was 3" down form the top. Local building codes dictate if you need to have them.


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    Around here, plastic is seldom used, only if the customer requests it.
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    Sorry, i didn't mean to cause confusion.
    Around here a "thickened edge" is like a monolithic like rob showed but only about 3-4" wide at the bottom of the "footing" area.
    We use "monolithic " more like rob showed with a 12-18" footing area.

    If a footing is required, We only have to have 18" deep footings in this area.

    Again, sorry about the confusion.
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXLBimmer View Post
    Here is what mine looked like prior to pour. They called it monolith(thickened edge). Here are some of the pics from 3 weeks ago.
    preprepped.jpgprepped.jpgcorner.jpgdetailrebar.jpgunspecified.jpg
    looks good , that pump makes it easy .. NO DRIVING OVER THE PREPARED SUBGRADE ....did they compact with a sheepsfoot or just a vibra plate ? looks to be on top of some sort of sand fill

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    Quote Originally Posted by MillerTime View Post
    Dang thats all high!
    My brother checked this past week and we can get cement for $93 a yard. Less than 5 yds is $125 delivery fee.
    He is pouring sidewalks and extra drive way width.

    I hate fiber mesh concrete. If u ever plan on crawling around on the concrete, its a bad deal. There will be fibers everywhere. You could always grind and polish or paint, but thats even more cost.
    I've seen a few mini-storages done with it, and personally thats all I'd use it for.

    Personally all my stuff gets steel. Drives are 6" with a 12" thickened edge, garage (30×50) is 6-7" with 18x18" footings. But i was running alot of heavy equipment and semis on it for quite a while.

    Jb, make sure you get a thickened edge though.

    I told one engineer guy i did a pad, final grade and drives for, to make sure he did thickened edge on his fancy shmancy "new designed" pole barn. He didn't, and slab was washing out before we even had a chance to do the final grade. He had other "sounds good" engineer type ideas too on that building. It was a bunch of crap though. Being in the field and experience with how it works in the real world, will totally blow an engineers mind when their ideas fail.
    He sold the place about a year after building that idiotic shop, that he blew a ton of money on.
    Agreed i would not use fiber mesh (cat hair ) in anything for my own personal just plain ole wire mesh and wire tyed Rebar .. Around these parts Govt work is specd with fiber and now they do have a so called liquid fiber to eliminate the fuzzies on the trowels ..
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    Last edited by RUNNINHOTRACING163.1; 02-10-2017 at 07:39 AM. Reason: spel chk
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    Quote Originally Posted by j21black View Post
    Yeah. I was quoted $85/yard.

    School me on a thickened edge. I'm familiar with the fiber concrete. Did dads barn with it in 1998. I haven't found a crack yet.
    I wish we could get it for that and we'd eliminate blacktop driveways but with concrete cost thru the roof i believe due to those million dollar front discharge trucks so driver does;nt have to get out , teamster wages , and theres all kinds of taxes on the load and winter charges for using hot water ... may come back down when gov rauner makes it a right to work state ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by RUNNINHOTRACING163.1 View Post
    looks good , that pump makes it easy .. NO DRIVING OVER THE PREPARED SUBGRADE ....did they compact with a sheepsfoot or just a vibra plate ? looks to be on top of some sort of sand fill
    Just a vibraplate. I put down 23 truckloads of dirt there.
    That pump truck was sweet! Until I got the bill!! 1500 bucks!!! for 4 hours!!! The girl told me that thing cost 1 million dollars!!
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    If you only used that pumper for 4 hours on that slab, that flat work crew had their chit together

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    Quote Originally Posted by XXLBimmer View Post
    Just a vibraplate. I put down 23 truckloads of dirt there.
    That pump truck was sweet! Until I got the bill!! 1500 bucks!!! for 4 hours!!! The girl told me that thing cost 1 million dollars!!
    sometimes that $1500.00 is money well spent when you got guys standing around ha
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    [QUOTE=j21black;80360]Since I was asked to start a new one and not to clutter up the 1.0 thread here is 2.0

    I'm building a 40X70 pole barn to house all of my junk in. Originally had planned to build a 50X80 barn but the cost to move to 52' trusses made it unreasonable for my needs. I shortened it by 10' in length as well so my wife wouldn't lose all of her "precious" view of a cotton field while she sat on the back porch drinking wine straight out of the bottle. She may have to start drinking Boone Farms after I'm done with this project.



    Attachment 63562


    Nice job on the tailgate spreading , buy that guy a 30 pack of Bud lite
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Short-Bus View Post
    If you only used that pumper for 4 hours on that slab, that flat work crew had their chit together
    Those freakin guys worked like an Olympic team. They started pouring at 6:30 started the polisher/finisher at 2 and left at 4. 115 yards of concrete.

  13. #33
    PBN Charter Member Short-Bus's Avatar
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    I used a pumper on the last house I built, footings and walls, set'r on a corner and let r eat

    Edit, sorry JB no hijack intended....
    Last edited by Short-Bus; 02-10-2017 at 09:00 AM.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Short-Bus View Post
    I used a pumper on the last house I built, footings and walls, set'r on a corner and let r eat

    Edit, sorry JB no hijack intended....
    It's all good...Post away.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXLBimmer View Post
    Those freakin guys worked like an Olympic team. They started pouring at 6:30 started the polisher/finisher at 2 and left at 4. 115 yards of concrete.
    Thats how you make Bank $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by j21black View Post
    Since I was asked to start a new one and not to clutter up the 1.0 thread here is 2.0

    I'm building a 40X70 pole barn to house all of my junk in. Originally had planned to build a 50X80 barn but the cost to move to 52' trusses made it unreasonable for my needs. I shortened it by 10' in length as well so my wife wouldn't lose all of her "precious" view of a cotton field while she sat on the back porch drinking wine straight out of the bottle. She may have to start drinking Boone Farms after I'm done with this project.

    We moved to Southern Alabama in the fall of 2016 and purchased a house set on 10 Acres. After we got settled I started getting quotes to put up the barn once we made the decision to farm it out vs. building it on our own. I just don't have the help I need here to complete a project this large. I ended up going with a build from National Barn Company after looking over several builds near me they had completed.

    First step was to decide where to put it on the property. I really only had 2 choices for a place to put it as the house area sits approx 6' higher compared to the rest of the property. You can see the grade changes in the picture below based on the grade lines. The choices I had are in outlined with a black and green circle. We ended up deciding on the area in green as it would allow the best access to the barn, require the least amount of dirt work, and would not require an addition of a 2nd septic system as I can tie into the unit already on the property. The green line in the photo is an outline of where the drive will be placed allowing access direct from the road.

    Attachment 63540

    Next we worked with National Barn on the design of the building. It will have Charcoal wainscoating and roof, with Ash Grey walls. Here are a couple drawings from National Barn, along with a barn in the same basic color scheme. The barn will have 2 - 12'x12' overhead doors one on each end to allow for a complete pull through, and 2 - 10'x10' doors on the wall facing the house for additional parking access.

    Attachment 63541
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    Next I had to prep the ground and build a raised pad on which to build the barn (Which naturally meant I needed to purchase a tractor, because everyone should have one) First step, remove the trees that were in the way of the building. Next I brought in 144 yards of dirt to build the pad. At it's lowest spot the pad is 6" high, and at it's tallest point it is 18" high to make a raised level pad. The pad was completed it November and has held up very well considering the onslaught of rain we have received the past 2 months. I had to add one bag of river rock from lowe's to the only section the started to wash out. I have not had to add any additional dirt to the pad.


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    Next I got started on cleaning up the ditch in front of the house, and adding the culvert to start on the new driveway. My intent was to have the culvert completed and usable before material delivery so National Barn could use it instead of my main driveway and finish the drive to the barn after completion of the build. I got the culvert built in time, but due to a couple inches of rain the day before material delivery, they had to use the main drive anyway.

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    Finally starting to get somewhere. On 2/7/17, the buidling materials were finally delivered in a driving rainstorm. Sometime in the next 3 weeks the build will get started. I will update again as progress is made.

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    whats the hold up u guys done and under roof or out boating in February ?

  17. #37
    PBN Charter Member j21black's Avatar
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    Bulding of a Storage Shed 2.0

    They have until tomorrow (14 days after delivery of materials) to schedule the build. Typically start 1-3 days after scheduling.

    EDIT: If I haven't heard anything by COB Wednesday I'll call Thursday AM. My guess they start on Monday.
    Last edited by j21black; 02-20-2017 at 04:42 PM.

  18. #38
    PBN Charter Member j21black's Avatar
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    Start Monday at the latest, but the hope to finish up previous job and start over the weekend...
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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by j21black View Post
    Start Monday at the latest, but the hope to finish up previous job and start over the weekend...
    Bast@rds hopefully they do what they say , down here you'd be waiting with a sign on there door that sayz GONE FISHIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

  20. #40
    PBN Charter Member j21black's Avatar
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    Well they don't get paid until it's completed so.

    I hope they get here this weekend. Rain in the forecast M-W. would be nice to get the posts set before that gets here.
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